Thursday 11 March 2010

clerkenwell & smithfield.

today, i explored the northeast-ish areas in london called clerkenwell & smithfield.

first stop, st. paul's cathedral. (yes, i've been here 2 months and haven't even walked by it until today) the cathedral is actually bordering clerkenwell & smithfield, and lies inside what used to be the old 'city of london'
st. paul's cathedral, designed by the famous architect Sir Christopher Wren.

largest church dome in europe, second only to st. peter's basilica in rome.
classical/baroque front facade.
corinthian columns and clock tower.

got a quick look inside, but didn't want to pay the 10 pound entrance fee. so, i'm thinking ill return for a service there, since it's free then. it'd also be an interesting/authentic way to experience the church.

right around the corner was temple bar, the only surviving gateway into the Roman City of London.

postman's park. a small memorial park honoring acts of bravery by ordinary people.



then, one of the best kept secrets of london: St. Bartholow the Great.
tudor-style entrance

oldest parish church in london. famous for the being the site of many movies, including Shakespeare in love

then, once i got there the keeper told me it was the background of another famous, more recent, movie: SHERLOCK HOLMES! w/ robert downey junior and jude law. as soon as i came in, he asked me if i'd seen the movie, then whipped out a giant folder full of photos of the filming!
look familiar? this is where they filmed the opening scene with the ritual with the girl tied up.
the window on the far left is the one where robert downey jr. and jude law looked down onto the crime scene.

organ.
cloisters.

i was pleasantly surprised that this church was where sherlock holmes was filmed, but also just how quaint the church was in general. the keeper, who is originally from chicago, was SUPER friendly. he gave me an introductory talk to the church and showed me around. and he showed me a 15 minute video on the history of the church. he seemed genuinely excited to tell people about the church.

my experience at st. bartholomews was the antithesis of the one at st. paul's just twenty minute prior. St. b's was stone, quiet, rugged and unpretentious. and st. p's was marble, crowded, pristine and over-the-top. and i personally preferred st. b's because of its intimate atmosphere. at one point, i had the entire church to myself to wander around and photograph. the best part was the keeper who was so friendly. I left the church without seeing him, but then two seconds later he followed me out door and waved and screamed 'GOOD BYE.' so sweet.

clerkenwell & smithfield is definitely not a 'hip & happening' part of town, but i'm glad i got to see the two churches.

then i decided to go window shopping at soho.
this pink monkey on oxford st. was watching me. maybe it's by banksy? not sure.

(photo taken from google)
found Milkbar, another one of the cafe's featured on the previously mentioned nyt.com article from aspen reese. i had a flat white there, and i like it slightly better than the espresso room's. but only slightly. i plan on visiting all the cafes mentioned in that article. and right across milkbar, i stumbled onto lorelei, which is the italian restaurant recommended by a local. so will definitely be returning to the south of soho sq. on firth st.


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